But Wi-Fi has always felt more dark art than science, and it’s an art that is hard to conjure up without being physically present. Potential failure points are everywhere, and what works well in one home may not work in another. Even network hardware reviewers can come to drastically different conclusions about the same product.
So Wi-Fi is fundamentally against my desire to answer questions with specific recommendations. The best I can do is walk you through the self-diagnosis process for Wi-Fi issues. This way, you can make better decisions about whether (and how) to upgrade your equipment.
Check the size of the Wi-Fi problem
The first step in resolving Wi-Fi problems is to check if the slowdown is coming from the cable modem (which gives you access to the Internet at home) or the router (which distributes Wi-Fi connectivity throughout your home).
Start by connecting your computer directly to the modem with an Ethernet cable and running a speed test. (The easiest way is to google “speed test” and then press the blue “Run speed test” button above the search results). You will need a USB-to-Ethernet adapter to test on computers that don’t. you have an ethernet port, but if that’s too big of a problem or you don’t have a suitable computer at all, you can also try calling your internet provider and asking them to remotely test your internet speed.
Jared Newman / Odlewnia
If your wired connection speeds are on par with those advertised by your ISP, the next step is to start whole-house speed tests. Measure speeds in an area where connectivity is slow and then head back to where your router is with multiple tests in each area.
The goal here is to figure out where your connection issues are occurring. Consistently slow speeds throughout your home can be a sign of an outdated router, while dead zones or coverage issues may require a more powerful router or mesh Wi-Fi system. (More on that soon.)
Find the 802.11 version of your Wi-Fi router
To find out if your router needs to be replaced, it’s helpful to know how old it is. One way to do this is to locate your router’s model number – probably it’s printed on the router itself – and then do a web search for a supported Wi-Fi version. Here are the major versions of Wi-Fi you should know about:
- 802.11a / b / g: Extremely old and almost certainly the source of all your Wi-Fi problems.
- 802.11a / b / g / n (or 802.11n only): Obsolete at the moment and a solid candidate for replacement. Many of these routers only support one frequency band, which is slower and more prone to congestion, and the “dual-band” variants have limited coverage in the faster 5 GHz frequency band.
- 802.11ac (also sold as Wi-Fi 5): Not the latest standard, but still widely available, even on some high-performance routers.
- 802.11ax (or Wi-Fi 6): Routers using this standard began shipping in late 2020, so your router is probably brand new.
- Wi-Fi 6E: Congratulations, you’ve probably just bought a new router (and maybe even spent $ 1,200 on it).
Wi-Fi versions alone are not a benchmark for quality – a cheap Wi-Fi 6 router may be inferior to a high-end mesh system with Wi-Fi 5 – but each subsequent version introduces new features that improve connectivity, and we’ve generally seen the drive for better performance over time.
Try a few smaller router tweaks
To repeat a tip I talked about in July, sometimes changing your router’s channel and bandwidth settings can do wonders in reducing Wi-Fi interference, especially if you are seeing inconsistent speeds on devices that aren’t too far from your router. By delving into your router’s settings, you can bypass automatic channel selection and find a channel that may be less congested.
You can also try other small tweaks like picking up the router off the ground and clearing the area around it – but I wouldn’t start rearranging your room for the sake of the router. Chances are the improvements will be minimal. Of course, moving the router to a more central location in your home might help, but that would likely require your cable company reconnecting your home internet connection.
Wi-Fi extenders: the last resort
TP-Link
Since replacing a router is a pain, many people wonder if they can just fix their problems with a Wi-Fi extender or repeater that pick up the wireless signal from the router and forward it. (“Extender” sometimes refers to a device with a wired connection to the router, although I often see both terms being used interchangeably.)
My experience with Wi-Fi extenders is hit or miss. Wireless repeaters will always degrade regardless of the signal received, so benefits may be canceled if you are trying to address a dead zone or interference from other nearby wireless devices. The same goes for Powerline adapters, which send a wired Ethernet connection from the router to another part of the house through wall outlets. Depending on how your home is wired, this approach may result in poor connection or not working at all.
I’m not telling people to avoid extension cords completely as they can work in some situations, but keep your expectations low and be prepared to return the device if that doesn’t help.
Choosing a new Wi-Fi router
When you decide it’s time to replace your router, what then?
A mesh Wi-Fi system will be the surest way to solve Wi-Fi problems, especially in larger homes or those with many dead zones. These systems allow you to connect multiple access points throughout your home, creating one large network. They manage connections better than a router with an extender, and systems advertised as “Tri-Band” can connect each access point without overloading the rest of the network.
However, such systems may not be necessary. If you haven’t replaced your router in a while, even a new standalone router might be enough to punch your way through the dead zones if they’re not too far away. Standalone routers tend to be cheaper than mesh systems, and some have features that mesh systems lack, such as USB memory support or a large number of Ethernet ports.
Ultimately, however, there’s no way to be sure if your new router will work without trying it out yourself. You can read all kinds of reviews – PCWorld reviews both Wi-Fi mesh systems and the latest 6E Wi-Fi routers – but even the best tips aren’t universal. Buying a new router will always be a leap of faith.
Note on modem / router combinations
Finally, there’s one more complicating factor: while cable companies used to distribute modems and internet routers separately – the first provided internet from outside the home and the second distributed Wi-Fi at home – both are increasingly being used. functions in one box. This makes installation easier for the cable company, but replacing your router is more difficult for you.
If you have a combo box and are paying for a rental, consider replacing it with two devices: a new router and a separate cable modem. Be aware, however, that some companies – especially fiber internet providers such as AT&T and Verizon – make it difficult or impossible to replace your modem.
If it is not possible or necessary to replace the modem, you can simply turn off its Wi-Fi functions so that it does not interfere with the operation of the new router. Instructions on how to do this may vary from provider to provider, so expect to googling “modem mode” or “bridge mode” and the name of your ISP.
And if you still have Wi-Fi problems, send me an email and I’ll try to help. You can also check out my Advisor newsletter – which first appeared in a version of this story – for more practical technical advice each week.